Oil filter and oil universal wet clutch semi manual and bike

What is pure filter, what is coarse filter? 

Are they important? Why an automatic does not need an oil filter although it has same power or higher power? Why does a small 110cc semiautomatic like Honda wave have an oil filter while the PCX does not?

Pure filter is responsible for retaining metal dregs, carbon deposits. Coarse filter is responsible for retaining pieces of large dirt such as cloth fibers, nylon, small debris of engine details.

Coarse filter is a steel mesh with large holes which located in the oil-change-screw or separate screw on the engine cover. It can’t filter metal particles or small carbon deposits. It can be cleaned or does not need to do it if we can protect engine from dust. Universal scooters only have this type of filter.

There are 2 type of pure filter: centrifugal filter and paper filter applied on wet clutches. Honda bikes always are used centrifugal filters and Yamaha & Suzuki bikes always are used paper filters. Paper filter will filter more thoroughly than centrifugal filter, so using paper filter can prolong oil life and reduce engine wear.

Why scooters don’t need a pure filter, but manual and semiautomatic bikes are required?

Because of wear, scratches on the piston – cylinder are mainly caused by hard particles of iron and silicium which are between the machine parts. Carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber does not cause scratches, but it make oil thicker so oil is pumped badly in lubricating system. These particles of iron and silicium are created by wear of clutch disk. Details at the head of combustion chamber and the steel piston do not produce as much particles iron as the clutch. The clutch of scooter is out of the engine so there’s not much particles iron and no particles silicium. That why its don’t need use this filter type. Who change the oil at home will see that the oil will be pure black, and for semi and manual bikes, the oil will have a light gray color due to the particles of clutch disk. That’s why the SH 150i has higher power than a 110cc Sirius Fi but it doesn’t need a pure filter.

So is the paper filter perfect?

In fact, the paper filter is much better than the centrifugal filter if it is real and it is replaced periodically, otherwise it will destroy the engine more terrible.

With a thick and well-filtered filter, the paper filter needs more time and pressure to pump the oil than the centrifugal filter. If the filter is dirty for a long time or the rubbers which are at head of filter is flaked ,that will reduce extremely the amount of pumped oil to the top of the engine. With centrifugal filtration, there is no need to worry about that.

A genuine filter with a deeper filter, so the filter area is larger, the oil wil be pumped faster, the 2 rubbers at the head of filter will ensure the pressure of the filter chamber. A fake filter costs only about 10-15k, a genuine filter costs 75k and a fake filter will do more harm to the engine than its price.

How long the paper filter need to be changed?

According to Yamaha’s recommendation is 5000km, but the reality will be very different. If you move inside city, the road with a lot of red light, trafict is so jammed, you have to impact on clutch many times. That will produce iron, silicon or other particles inside engine. Or if you use super-slick nano-solutions, or use MB oil (for scooter) , that also will produce iron, silicon or other particles inside engine. Its make filter and oil badly very fast. So the best way to take care the engine are changing filter and changing oil sooner.

How long the paper filter need to be changed?

Of course, its main task is lubricating the engine and transmission, not lubricate for the clutch. When clutch is working, clutch disks rub each other, so stronger friction will reduce wearing and privent engine from heating up and lose power. (Motor GP or Ducati racing team have used dry clutch). That’s why we are required to use oil with a minimum friction index as MA1 & MA2 and forbid using MB for wet-clutch. Because MB lubricate extremely well and has very low friction, although it is good for the engine and transmission, but it can’t keep friction for clutch disks thus clutch will slip,wear and create iron particles.

The main task of the oil in the clutch is heat dissipate and cleaning iron & silicon particles, not lubricating. Because these particles will wear clutch disks and cause slipping for the clutch disks. Instead of having to open and cleaning dry clutch of scooter, the oil and oil filter have done that job for us. Each oil change is a cleaning time for clutch disks. That is the advantage of the wet clutch.

So should we use super expensive oil with high viscosity index for popular semi/manual bike?

Confirming with vehicles under 150cc and stop many times on the road while you’re ring it, expesive oil is extreme wasteful and not good for popular bikes. With expensive oil, you will use it for long time, but as mentioned, long-term using will cause a lot of particles and it reduce amount pumped oil to head of engine.

Expensive oils are still suitable for 150cc bikes, but only for long trip, when clutch is not used much. Its have stable and durable viscosity to complete our trip without oil change on the way (risk of getting fake oil).

Many type of oil with price under 150k will be more suitable for popular bikes. If you have extra money, buy a good oil filter and change the oil more regularly.

Mineral oil change earlier 1000km, even clean the engine and protect the engine better than expensive oil can be changed at 5000km with a lot of particles inside.

List of Some oil types I used for Wave RSX 110, Future 125, Winner 150 & FZ155i are posted in comment.

Critieria : Price-Performance Ratio – P/P

• Caltex havoline super 4t 20w50: When engine is cool, it’s quite & inert. But when engine heats up, it is extremely smooth and cool. It’s good for long trip. It’s only semi- synthetic but it have stable and durable viscosity so it can can be changed at 1800km-2000km. This type is suitable region with high temperature. It’s excellent for P/P.
• Saigon Petro SP Green Power 10w40 Fully Synthetic SN Plus: Bike accelerate well, engine is smooth, shift gear smoothly. Price 100k/l for a fully synthetic bottle SN plus -It’s best P/P.
• Fuchs Silkolene 10w40: Feeling of riding is boring but engine is smooth, inert. It has ester and over 3000km oil is still fine. If you want the engine is cool and works smoothly, put it for your bike. Price 190k/l, it’s worth.
• Petrol One Fully synthetic 10w30 MA2/MB: Bike accelerate well, engine works rather smoothly. Price 85k/l -It’s best p/p for Winner.
• Petrol One Fully Synthetic 10w40 MA2: Bike accelerate badly while engine is still cool. When you ride the bike for trip >10km and engine heats up , engine works smoothly, shift gear smoothly. Because it’s thick ,so it can be put for an old scooter to do a long trip (old scooter over 50k km odo) and engine works really smoothly. That is what I like. For long trip and riding the bike with high speed, engine is so quiet and smooth. Price 85k/l -It’s excellent p/p . This oil is imported from UAE in cans.
• Kixx fully synthetic 10w40: “Running-in” ~100km. Engine is really smooth and cool, shift gear smoothly. Riding inside city is fine, bike is inert while engine is still cool. But when it heats up, it works smoothly, bike accelerate well, doing short trips <100 km continuously is fine. It need to be changed at 3000km. With price 100k/l, this oil is a super product for popular bikes.
• Xado Racing: Engine accelerate well and works smoothly. For long trip, engine is not really smooth. This oil contain RF Revitalizant -it is a type of nano, so forbid putting other nano in Xado Racing. It will cause slip clutch disks. With price >250k/l, it’s not worth. Cheap oil like Kixx 10w40 or SP Green 10w40 or Havoline 10w40 mixed with 20ml of MoS2 will bring us same feeling (like 80%).
• Gulf 10w40 PAO Ester: this oil is good but price is high. Bike accelerateengine well but engine is hot and works not smoothly. This lubricant is not as good as Xado Racing. It’s not worth