Discuss about motorcycle oil

I – WHAT IS MOTORCYCLE OIL?

It’s solvent base oil(~90%) + additives(~10%)

Additives are substances added let base oil enhance properties: reducing friction, anti-oxidation, descaling, anti-fire, increasing the life of base oil, etc.. It’s the secret of technology as well as the main factor of the products which let us classify good or poor products if its have the same base oil. Some semi-synthetic oils have good additives and its better than some full synthetic oils which has the poor additives.

Most oil manufacturers don’t produce base oils by themselves but they buy base oils from big petrochemical companies such as Shell, Mobil, BP, Caltex, Repsol … and then they add their own additives to their products (eg Motul , Liqui).

Base oil is polymer molecule in the form of CxHy. It’s solvents for mixing additives. It’s also the main factor which decide how many kilometers oil must be replaced. If the base oil is poor, it must be replaced soon althought it has good addtives.

THERE ARE 6 GROUPS:

1. Group I : mineral oil (filtered from petroleum). Containing a lot of impurities, polymeric impurities, heterogeneous (poor lubrication) and unsaturated (susceptible to oxidation and metamorphism) and susceptible fire (loss oil + scale). So it must be replaced after 1000km.

2. Group II : It’s group 1st but is filtered cleaner and undergoes hydrocracking process so it is more uniform and durable.

3. Group III : It’s group 2nd but the oil was purified and hydrocracking thoroughly, so the molecules are very uniform and has long life. Some of these groups are carefully made up and its are of the same quality as fully synthetic oils. So on the market its also called Fully Synthetic.

4. Group III Plus: This is an oil that is completely synthesized from ethylene gas or petroleum base materials into a homogeneous and extremely pure polymer chain. For example Shell Ultra lubricants or Pennzoil Platinum 100% were synthesized from ethylene gas.

5. Group IV: PAO oil (PolyAlphaOlefin), 100% synthetic from ethylene gas, non-polar, homogeneous, pure, extremely stable and inert, difficult to burn and oxidized, difficult to hydrolyze. It is non-denaturing, non-foaming even under extremely high temperature pressure (hydropower plant turbines, thermoelectric plants, heavy industrial machinery working under prolonged harsh conditions often have to use PAO). However, the preparing is very expensive and its are non-polar, so it is difficult to dissolve the additive, so PAO is used as an additive to improve the durability of lower oil groups. If the base oil is PAO, it’s often added ester as an additive.

6. Group V: is Ester, extremely durable and inert with temperature, difficult to burn, difficult to oxidize. Its only defect is that easily hydrolyzed (water will damage the oil if it fall into engine) and the price is too high. I affirm that there are no products that are ester base oils, even 300V, but just genuine base oil (groups III, IV) with ester (Motul just dare say Estercore). The oil content 100% ester can only be used for jets or GP racing.

II. WHAT OIL TYPES ARE BEING MARKETED?

1. Mineral oil: Normal it will be Group 1st or 2nd + additives. Because the base oil is not durable, so the additive is not also good (no one mixes an expensive additive into a solvent that must be changed after 1000km)

2. Semi-synthetic oil: It is called Synthetic or Semi Synthetic or Synthetic Blend or Synthetic Technology or Technosynthese. Those names primarily for PR to fool the user into buying it. It’s mixed from around 70% mineral oil (groups 1st , 2nd ) and 30% synthetic oil (group 3rd or 4th or 5th ) or low quality group 3rd. Additives in this type are medium quality. Up to 2000km its should be changed.

3. Fully Synthetic (100% Synthetic): By definition, this type is group 3rd plus or higher level. But some oil types in group III are purified and thoroughly hydrocracking are called Fully. This type with high durability of base oil and normaly it’s mixed with very good additive, so the price is very high. The pinnacle in this type is oil phase PAO or higher level 100% PAO or 100% PAO phase ester.

III. CLASSIFICATION OF OIL.

1. JASO: MA, MA1, MA2: These are oils with anti-slip additives for wet clutches (oil soaked clutches). Semiautomatic and manual bike can only use these oil type. Scooter is also usable but it’s not optimal for engine.

2. JASO MB: This oil type has a friction-reducing additive. It’s optimal for scooters and even cars (dry or non-oil-soaked clutches).

NOTE: It’s forbidden to use for semiautomatic and manual bike.

Why MB and nano additives can’t be used for semiautomatic and manual bike?

Because MA type lubricate the engine well but it’s not too slippery to slip the clutch. MB type or Nano phased has extremely high friction reduction lubrication, so it will cause slipping for clutch. It will not be felt in short time, but the clutch disks are wearing over time, later its will wear a lot. The engine will be inert, hot and reduce power. At that time, the clutch has broken down.

The manufacturers of oil have carefully researched balance of them let clutch is lubricated well but it’s not slipped, so don’t try to do stupid things to break that balance by Nano additives.

THICKNESS & VISCOSITY.

It’s usually printed on cover: Thin(w30); Thick (w40, w50).

• Same type of w40, w30 then: 10w40, 10w30 are thicker than 5w40, 5w30.

• The thicker oil lubricates well for engine and engine works more smoothly. But the weakness is slowly pumped when engine start at low temperature. Engine will be wear if it’s not started carefully (because 90% of the wear is made during starting). Thinner oil is pumped well and reduce wear during starting. It makes you feel that bike accelerate better and engine works more smoothly while the engine is cold and ride it for short distances.

IV. SO WHICH OIL PROTECT THE ENGINE BETTER?

This is a very complicated issue because it depends on the vehicle type, new or old, daily mileage and driving style. The oil will be thin when it gets hotter and it lubricates worse. So thicker oil will be better for engine when it too hot. Good oil (base oils III, IV, V) have a high viscosity index (VI) which means the thinness when it’s hot will not be much different thinness when it’s cool.

1- Use thin oil for :

• If you want the bike accelerate better in beginning then thin oil is best option. The thick oil can’t be pumped to whole lubricating system at that time and engine will wear more.

• If you ride your bike for short distances under 20km.

• Riding in regions with low temperature in winter

• New bike with tight engine details as well as high level bike like the SH 300i, Forza 300, Aprilia SRV 850, Honda XADV750, etc.

• Racing or stealing dogs.

• Thin oil is not good for engine with a trip over 100km, the oil is too hot, it lubricate worse and engine will be getting wear as a result.

2- Use thick oil for :

• Riding in egions with high temperature (from 20 degree Celcius).
• Start carefully, ride the bike over 10km every day.
• Long-trip up to 1000km (cooling system must be good)

V. VARIATION FOR OIL.

As mentioned, Fully Synthetic (group III+, IV, V) has a high viscosity index (its thin slowly by temperature) and extremely low denaturation (group IV, V). In general compared its with semi-synthetic and mineral oils then when fully Synthetic lubricant are still new, its will be very inert, as a result the bike accelerate slowly, changing gear is not smooth. But when you ride the bike continuously hundreds kilometers, oil will be hot and thin, you’ll feel that engine so smooth. After 3000km, oil is still good (depending on additives and base oil quality). As for mineral oil, the engine is very smooth during oil is new, bike accelerate well. But after 700km or you ride it continuously over 100km, you’ll feel that engine is not smooth anymore and changing gear is not smoothly.

VI. OIL CAN BE MIXED ?

1- Group IV (PAO) with non-polar properties and V (Ester) withstand higher operating temperatures and provide superior cleaning properties than PAO. They are different from the common group, so they are fastidious in mixing additives, so they should not be mixed with lower group (I, II, III). Their additives are the best and don’t need to be mixed.

2- Group I, II, III can be mixed together if they are of the same thickness.

NOTE: never mix MB into MA, MA2 and use it for semi and manual bike. That will make clutch be slipped.

And most importantce thing, I affirm that mixing the lubricant does not affect the durability of the bike. But if you mix two types of lubricant with much difference of viscosity, its can’t be mixxed, so it make your driving feeling worse, bike’s acceleration and stability of the oil will be decrease.

VII. “RUNNING-IN” FOR OIL.

Like an engine, oil also takes time to reach its best properties. When oil is heated, it will be pyrolysis into shorter polymer segments, which means it will be thinner, type of W40 after 1000km will only be W30. With PAO and Ester, this process will be slower, so the oil is more durable. The best lubricating capacity of the oil is within a range of tenuity.

– Mineral oil is good in beginning but after that lubricating capacity will be decreases very quickly. After 1000km it’s bad.

– Fully Synthetic oil will usually make engine inert in beginning and bike accelerate slowly. But it will be better later, even PAO and Ester oil only get best lubricating capacity after 500-1000 km and keep it until thousands km. The reason is that its are so inert and take a long time to pyrolysis and getting thiness.

VIII. SHOULD WE USE EXPENSIVE OIL OR NOT? WHY IS IMPORTED FROM EU AND US EXPENSIVE?

1 Why is imported oil from the EU and US expensive:

Because of tax, goods tax, high transportation costs and very high discount for businessman. It is not necessarily better. A bottle of EU oil from the factory has increased its price at least 3 times when it reaches Vietnamese users -> so do you think it’s 3 times better?

The oil is only different when it is added PAO or Ester, the rest is not different from cheap oil. The feeling of driving when you use expensive oil for your bike can be found when you just use cheaper oil.

2 Should we use expensive oil?

In my opinion, its are “CUSTOM” and “SHOULD NOT” in most cases with popular bike (bikes <175cc). I’m only talking about Fully Synthetic oil. For bikes >175cc or for a long trip with popular bike, you need really good oil, durable, and good additives.

List of some oil types I used for my bikes : PCX 150, Airblade 125, Vision 110 are posted in comment.

Critieria : Price-Performance Ratio – P/P

1. Yuki Nano Scooter 10w40: this type is semi-synthetic with nanotechnology. Bike accelerate well in beginning, quite smooth. It’s suitable for riding inside city, short trips < 150km (HCMC-Vung Tau). For further trips or ride the bike roughly, this type is not okay, engine is not smooth. More than 2000km, bike still accelerate well but engine is not smooth. Because it contain Nano,so it can be used longer. Price 120k/800ml. It’s not worth.

1. Shell Helix Ultra 5w30: It’s car oil, price ~270k/l. It was synthesized from 100% gas. “Running-in” for oil ~200km. When engine is cool, it’s little bit inert, but when engine heats up ,it’s smooth and bike accelerate well. This type good for trips ~150km. It need to change at 4000km. It’s suitable for new bike and for riders like the smoothness, coolness of the engine.

1. Motul Power Le Scooter 5w40: Bike accelerate well in beginning, engine is quite smooth. It’s suitable for riding inside city and short trips <150km. The weak point is: its quality will be down quickly, so it need to change at 2000km. It’s suitable for new bike and for riders want that bike accelerate well & engine is smooth but it will be hot

1. Kixx 5w30 Fully Synthetic SN plus, 4L bottle: bike accelerate well in beginning, engine is smooth. It’s suitable for new bike and riding continuously below <15km, riding inside city. For long trip or riding in high temperatue environment, the engine is not smooth. It’s like Pennzoil 5w30 (up to 90%) but the price is below a half price of Pennzoil 5w30, around 100k/l. P/P is very good but it has few user.

1. Kixx PAO 5w40: “Running-in” for oil ~500km, you will feel bike little bit inert when the engine is cool. When you ride it continuously for a trip 500-1000km (have short break) or when engine heats up, you’ll get high engine is very cool and smooth. Price > 160k/l, mixed with e59 > 200k/l -> not recommended. It’s like Shell Advance Ultra, this type is quite thick, so if the engine is well-manufactured and tight like Forza 300i, XADV 750,… it should not be used.

1. Kixx Scooter Fully Synthetic 5w40: “Running-in” for oil ~100km, bike accelerate well, engine is smooth and cool. It’s good for a trip 500km or more. Price range is 100k/l, mixed with e59 > 140k/l. It need to change at 3000km. In my opinion, this oil is worth for P/P.

1. Pennzoil 5w30 ultra platinum: Car oil of Shell, it was synthesized from 100% gas. For this type, bike accelerate well in beginning, but engine is not really smooth. It’s not good for long trip, it’s just suitable for short riding. It’s like Kixx 5W30 (up to 90%) but its price is higher ->It’s not worth.

1. Caltex Havoline 10w40 (SN): “Running-in” for oil ~200km. When engine is cool, it’s quite inert. But when engine is hot it is extremely smooth and cool. It’s good for long trip if it’s mixed with E59. It’s only semi- synthetic but it’s very durable. It’s best option for Vespa. This type is suitable region with high temperature. It’s worth

1. Voltronic XM Green Scooter 4X ester: It is really high quality. You feel it’s like Shell 90%. When engine is cool, or riding inside city, or for short riding, bike accelerate worse. But long-distance riding, it’s is extremely stable, engine is real smooth. The life time of lubricant is long (>4000km). Price ~320k/800ml, it’s not worth.

1. Kixx PAO 1 0w30: It’s car oil. It’s quite thin, bike accelerate well in beginning, engine is smooth. Riding continuously over 20km or riding in environment with high temperature, engine is not smooth any more. Until 3000km, it need to change. The price of 200-250k/l mixed with e59 -> 250k/l – high cost –  so it’s not worth.